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We are have difficulty printing 4/4 between two, two-highs. The web lead between units is long and there is some stretch and flop, especially when there is a lot of color. Appreciate any suggestions. I think we under-pack the first two-high by a thousandth or two, which helps. But we sure hate to see those ads with small reverse type coming.
On another line we run a quadracolor, pass the web down the line two units and s-wrap a floor unit then bring it back and up through the two-high that is in between. We get quite good registration with that technique.
Thanks any thoughts,
Publisher, El Paso Inc.
Anyone having issues with their water stops not staying open or closed, the new split washers are extremely easy to install and give you back full control. We can now run with them half way open again which helps tremendously with contamination issues on the edge of the sheet.
I have a brake that is releasing then catches. The outer pad seems to have a tight or loose feel when I try to adjust it. I've rebuilt the brake, stud, bearing and everything but can't get it to work right. Dancer jumps so much and of course dinky is hard to control. I'm using Double E chucks. The paper is Resolute out of Alabama or is it Mississippi I can't remember.
We can't seem to change a brush without crimping the new one, which wastes our time as well as money. Does anyone know of a good way to get a new brush on the the shaft without damaging it?
Is anyone having the same problems we are seeing? Should the brushes actually be wearing out the pickup roller? we have only been seeing this on our quad stack. We have replaced a couple of the rollers and they currently do not show signs of wear. Maybe there was a design flaw in our original rollers? Our quad was built at the end of 2008. I have attached a photo as well.
Our UV users have provided us with a list of the supplies and settings they use to successfully print UV. To access the list, CLICK HERE.
2005 Double Oscillator Q.S.
DYC S5000 Blankets packed .010 total .067 to .068
Anocoil N200 plates, 2,400 dpi, 110 lpi.
Inland Empire 45# / 80brite
Sun Chem/US Ink Quadstack blend UV uni-tack ink / tried using coldset (just to see) and get the same bounce marks.
Rycoline Seven-485S Etch.
Form rollers are set to 3/16" stripe with a durometer of 25 to 28. Running clean, minimal water needed to stay clean.
Did a progressive run, one color at a time. Bounce is in all colors but obviously shows worse in cyan and magenta. This is happening when the blanket gaps meet each other causing a bump in the plate to blanket contact. I haven't stripped all cylinders and checked irons yet, no wraps or any reason to believe have irons change. Last checked them 5+ months ago in the annual strip, clean & set (pull all rollers, blankets & packing. Clean side frames, brackets, cylinder ends, throw-offs etc and check all specs) and all were on target (only re-set them once in 9 years and that was after the 1st 6 months since new). Blankets are torqued with T- wrench at 45 inch-pounds (40 inch/lb on the end bolts), no bolt heads are sticking up or hitting anything.
Set bearers to OEM spec and it made things worse as at that setting the bearers were not contacting each other except at the blanket gap to gap. Re-set using old-school foil method with plates and blankets on and bounce was much better but can't completely get rid of plate-to-blanket cylinder bounce. Don't know how heavy I can pre-load the bearers as they are pretty narrow bearers and don't have constant clean lubrication or wipes on them. Bearers weren't touching except where the blanket gap is and they have shiny spot on the bearers at the gap so it's been bouncing for a while, might have a slight flat spot but can't feel anything by hand and I think my magnetic dial indicator went out in a recycle bin by accident. I"m thinking I might have some bearing wear but with even with that, with the bearers touching it should get rid of most of the bounce. Have always been on a strict lubrication schedule since new so bearings should still be true. Thought I'd throw this out and see if anyone has had a similar problem and might have a suggestion for a solution.
I don't spend as much time on the press as I used to so when I get a chance to operate, I see these things that the guys are numb to in daily use. This particular job is a worse case scenario for problems like this due to full page coverage of fading 4/c blue screen, doesn't usually show in everyday work.
Anybody have any thoughts or suggestions? Would love to hear from the users group.
Hope all is good and the Holidays treat you well.
Randy Leopard, Oregon Web Press, Inc. Albany, Oregon USA
1a) weekly 1b) monthly 1c) monthly 1d) weekly 2) 1/4" 3) daily 4) replacing jaw blades 5) Atlas knife cylinder adjustment 6) 1,000,000 cuts or 2,000,000 copies 7) every 50,000 copies 8) monthly 9) each time plates have been removed and after cylinders have been wiped dry 10) loosen pivot shaft screws and swing down 11) weekly 12) ink stripes 13) out 14) true 15) false 16) false
How did you do? Be sure to download appropriate pressman manuals if you have questions regarding any of the above. (You'll need to sign in before you can access the download page)
Wondering where the questions are? See our May, 2015 newsletter!
WebPress supplies three main kind of cutting rubbers.
BLACK: These are for use on Atlas folders. They have 8 grooves. Part # 1615080
YELLOW: These are for use on Web Leader folders. They have 6 grooves. Part # 615080
ORANGE: This color is specifically for use with 27" wide webs. Three customers currently order this type. Part # 1615180.
These cutting rubbers all have the same durometer: 85. WebPress does have the ability to offer other durometers if necessary. If you see the need for that, please contact us to discuss.
Does anyone have any problems with the web breaking when the E stop is pressed? If so, whats causing it?
Using the info below and the 2 photos should help you identify the type of ink seal needed for your equipment.
514050 – Web Leader Perfector, Web Leader Quadra Color and Atlas Quadra Color
1514380 – Atlas Perfector and Double Oscillator Quad-Stack
1514390 – Double Oscillator Quad-Stack UV
11001900 – Single Oscillator Quad-Stack
I am having an issue with smashed blankets on my Quad stack. Page 2 side is constantly smashing blankets. I have tried 3 different brands of blankets and they all seem to be the same. All of my pressures are set correctly. Out of the 6 quads we have running we are seeing a pattern of Quad 1 side 2. Those blankets,not just a certain deck, but on all decks on that side.. Even if the wrap up was on the page 1 blanket the smash is showing on side 2 only....
September 2015: Ah! Shenango has your curiosity piqued...well here is your answer:
"Shenango" is a term used for a casually employed dock worker. Part time...when he or she is needed. Probably not having employment that is regular enough to pay the bills. So sentence #3 is the closest to being correct.
But I must admit...it was fun turning it into various other parts of speech that truly sounded like they could be correct!
Don't Forget! You can see the PARTS CATALOGS, USER MANUALS, RECOMMENDED SPARES LISTS, & USER TIPS links once you have logged into this forum. Just sign in using the tab above! Call Gail if you can't remember your password...
I am trying to find out what adjustments are avail to re-adjust the sidelay setting on our quad stack my front page can be adjusted to center our cross but our back page can only be brought to about 1/8 of inch from center always leaving the back form not centered any knowledge would be a help
HOW DO I RESET THE PLATE CYLINDERS ON THE QUAD STACK? MY IMAGES TO AND FROM PINS ARE OFF LIKE CRAZY.
We have converted 4 of our Quad Stacks over to the 24 key fountains along with the segmented blades. After calibrating them and running them for a few months, I went back and compared our monthly waste totals against pre 24 key fountain months and our overall waste per month has dropped by between 3 and 4 percent. All of our operators brag on how much easier and quicker the start ups are. Its been a great investment and we could not be happier with the results!!
Wondering which perf wheels to order?
We have illustrations. Go to the "Spare Parts" section by clicking in the menu to the left. Then choose either "RTF Perf Wheels" or "Inline Perf Wheels" to open a PDF illustrates the different kinds and their associated part numbers.
What Fountain Solution are most users using on their quad stacks? We were using Varyx but have not been able to find a good replacement. We currently are having an issue whe we need to sstop for a period of say 10 min or more, when we start the press back up the impression mark prints. In order to get this to go away we have to wash all 24 plates with plate cleaner. We are using a product from Applied Chemistries and it is a a mild acid.